Sunday, December 27, 2009
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Monday, December 21, 2009
Colorful Colorado
We arrived in Colorado yesterday after an early morning flight. It feels like coming up for air...sunny & mid-50s temps...perfect.
Here is a shortlist of problems I'd like to check out:
On Flagstaff:
-NW Corner of Beer Barrel (V6).
-the "UCT"..Undercling Traverse (V9).
-Moffat Direct ... (V8).
-Just Right (V8).
-Hollow's Way (V8) .
-First Overhang (V5).
At Horsetooth:
-Pinch Overhang (V6?).
Carter Lake:
-Kahuna Roof (V5).
Morrison:
-Helicopter Direct (V6)
Meanwhile, here is a training secret: listen hard to this man:Nice technique, no?
Here is a shortlist of problems I'd like to check out:
On Flagstaff:
-NW Corner of Beer Barrel (V6).
-the "UCT"..Undercling Traverse (V9).
-Moffat Direct ... (V8).
-Just Right (V8).
-Hollow's Way (V8) .
-First Overhang (V5).
At Horsetooth:
-Pinch Overhang (V6?).
Carter Lake:
-Kahuna Roof (V5).
Morrison:
-Helicopter Direct (V6)
Meanwhile, here is a training secret: listen hard to this man:Nice technique, no?
Monday, December 14, 2009
Saturday, November 21, 2009
I Need More
The photo below documents Joe H.'s glorious failure, pitching off casually from the infamous "Chain Reaction." I made every effort to prod Joe up this thing, even going so far as to remind him that surely he could send a route that was the state of the art approximately 25 years ago. To no avail...Still, for every fall Joe took off of Chain, I took at least two off of my own path to personal glory...the ever-so-elusive and oh-so-mighty "Liquid Jade." Indeed, perhaps I am TOO STRONG TO SEND?! Why the magazine writers didn't come flocking to the Shipwreck Wall to document the power I emanated from my fingertips is beyond my comprehension. You people have no idea how truly amazing Joe and I are. Go on, diminish yourselves.
Meanwhile, the final 'cross race of the gargantuan Cross Crusade series is over, and while most folks in the ol' "blogosphere" were babbling about Molly Cameron's late race bobble, nobody expressed any interest in the REAL tragedy that took place not two laps in: my shifter getting clogged with mud, rendering it inoperable. Here's me, pre-tragedy:So graceful, so wonderful. Oh, what might have been!
Meanwhile, the final 'cross race of the gargantuan Cross Crusade series is over, and while most folks in the ol' "blogosphere" were babbling about Molly Cameron's late race bobble, nobody expressed any interest in the REAL tragedy that took place not two laps in: my shifter getting clogged with mud, rendering it inoperable. Here's me, pre-tragedy:So graceful, so wonderful. Oh, what might have been!
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Another Saturday, Another Sunday
Saturday, October 17th: Great day of guiding a couple students at Smith Rock! We did some great multi-pitch climbing, followed by some cragging, all in a marathon day...left Portland in the early AM, returned home late, shattered, and psyched.The next day, Sunday, October 18th...an incredibly hard 'cross race in Sherwood, Oregon. I look like a spring chicken in the photo below compared with how I looked when it was all over. Totally shattered...it took me four days to recover.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Recent Saturday, Recent Sunday
I've been getting in some solid Saturday climbing sessions, followed by Sunday 'cross races.
Saturday, October 10, Liquid Jade (12b) at Smith Rock:
I didn't quite get the send, but all the moves are easily there...it's just a matter of linking. Next trip.
And then...Sunday, October 11th: a 'cross race at Rainier High School, Rainier, OR.:Tough race, as all of them are. The course at Rainier is incredible.
Saturday, October 10, Liquid Jade (12b) at Smith Rock:
I didn't quite get the send, but all the moves are easily there...it's just a matter of linking. Next trip.
And then...Sunday, October 11th: a 'cross race at Rainier High School, Rainier, OR.:Tough race, as all of them are. The course at Rainier is incredible.
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Liberatory Education & Killing The Thousand-Headed Dragon
Jordia on September 19th, 2009, after finishing 2nd in her age group and 7th woman overall in the Timberline Marathon, Mt. Hood, Oregon:
Then, after resting a few days, and enduring a week-long, influenza-induced torment, Jordia ran the Portland marathon on October 4th:
Meanwhile, school is full steam ahead, and I still have the wise words of Paulo Freire ringing in my ears after a good summer's read. There's lottsa learning going on, what with Jordia and her marathon, loads of bouldering, some cragging, and happily, a bit more late summer guiding for me. Finished up a great route called "Kashmir" (5.12a) at Broughton Bluff--a full 100' of climbing with trad and sport all mixed together. I managed it without too much difficulty.
Meanwhile, it's cyclocross season, and for me to be a part of it after 11 years, I have to check my ego and just go for it, despite now having fully made the transition to making climbing my primary extra curricular activity. There's always something new to learn, as I was reminded the other day by this befuddled broseph:I leave you with this little ditty, and some summer bounty...
'Tis the night before the 'cross race
butterflies in my trunk
but the worst of it is
my bowels be carryin' funk...
Then, after resting a few days, and enduring a week-long, influenza-induced torment, Jordia ran the Portland marathon on October 4th:
Meanwhile, school is full steam ahead, and I still have the wise words of Paulo Freire ringing in my ears after a good summer's read. There's lottsa learning going on, what with Jordia and her marathon, loads of bouldering, some cragging, and happily, a bit more late summer guiding for me. Finished up a great route called "Kashmir" (5.12a) at Broughton Bluff--a full 100' of climbing with trad and sport all mixed together. I managed it without too much difficulty.
Meanwhile, it's cyclocross season, and for me to be a part of it after 11 years, I have to check my ego and just go for it, despite now having fully made the transition to making climbing my primary extra curricular activity. There's always something new to learn, as I was reminded the other day by this befuddled broseph:I leave you with this little ditty, and some summer bounty...
'Tis the night before the 'cross race
butterflies in my trunk
but the worst of it is
my bowels be carryin' funk...
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Summer Fun Time
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Guiding the Monkey
Guiding season is in full swing, and I had a great time guiding clients on Monkey Face on Sunday. Three other guides and I set up a tyrolean from the "Springboard" to the mouth, and then took them up via Panic Point to the top, from where they rappelled 200' to the ground. Great day of guiding for me, and fun for everyone.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Test of Endurance/Summertime Guiding
School's finally out for summer, and last week I started my "vacation" off right. I drove out to Smith Friday night, worked a guiding gig all day Saturday, drove to Corvallis Saturday night, raced the Test of Endurance 50-mile mountain bike race (5 1/2 hours on the bike...tough!), drove back to Smith Rock, and did a multi-pitch guide training all day Monday. I drove back home Monday night thoroughly worked over, but very psyched.
I'm hoping to get as much guiding work as possible this summer; it looks like I'll be out at Smith quite a bit. Monday's training renewed my motivation to pursue an AMGA Rock Instructor certification so I can legitimately guide multi-pitch terrain (of which there is plenty at Smith Rock). My fellow guides at Chockstone are great to work with; they are all quite unassuming, and totally accomplished climbers and guides. Monday's training was challenging, and gave me the perfect shift in perspective about climbing/guiding.
The Test of Endurance was very hard, but I expected as much and am happy that I finished. The amount of hard climbing in that race is sickening. I'm content with how I've been able to balance my interests in cycling and climbing...both are demanding and you can never stop improving in either pursuit.
I'm hoping to get as much guiding work as possible this summer; it looks like I'll be out at Smith quite a bit. Monday's training renewed my motivation to pursue an AMGA Rock Instructor certification so I can legitimately guide multi-pitch terrain (of which there is plenty at Smith Rock). My fellow guides at Chockstone are great to work with; they are all quite unassuming, and totally accomplished climbers and guides. Monday's training was challenging, and gave me the perfect shift in perspective about climbing/guiding.
The Test of Endurance was very hard, but I expected as much and am happy that I finished. The amount of hard climbing in that race is sickening. I'm content with how I've been able to balance my interests in cycling and climbing...both are demanding and you can never stop improving in either pursuit.
Friday, April 24, 2009
Sunday, April 19, 2009
Voila mon ami . . .
Friday, April 17, 2009
Pourquoi on grimpe?
Monday, April 13, 2009
Hick Rock
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